Acne Studios : Pre-Fall 2017


At first glimpse, the newest Acne Studio collection, photographed by Colin Dodgson, looks as though it was showcasing an offering for both men and women. Dodgson, celebrated for his analog documentation of youth and fashion over the last 20 years created what many are calling Acne most engaging images to date. People even took to social media to pose the question of if the seasonal collection was purposely addressing asexuality or if the male model adorned in women’s attire was simply for aesthetic.

“I have always been interested in the self-expression clothing can give,” – Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson

Acne is taking steps to address the blurred line between genders in fashion and people’s everyday life. As the gender zeitgeist is somewhat undefinable, It is quite intriguing and fitting that the brand is pulling its influences from the also undefinable 70’s movement. Scottish post-punk musician Bobby Gillespie wore the first half of the collection. Acne’s Design Director, Johnny Johansson was said to have thought of Bobby after coming to the realization that he produced the collection with Gillespie in mind.

“Often, I’ve been inspired by the self-expression of musicians. As I was finalizing this collection, I realized I’d designed a look for Bobby Gillespie,” – Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson

Given that Acne Studios never shy’s away from a fantastic execution, Johansson felt it didn’t hurt to have Colin Dodgson on the team. In a bow silk-lady blouses and a pair of full legged trousers, Bobby’s effortless style is indisputable. The collections wide upholstery fabric looking stripes even took the form of a belted wrap coat which clashed against a lazy pair of wide legged trousers. The clash of irregular pinstripes, chalk stripes, and unbalanced and balanced color stripes held just the right amount of tacky 70’s flare need.

Though this shoot is moderate in comparison to William Wegman Shoots Acne SS13 Dog Campaign, it raises significant questions about gender neutrality as well as ageism.

James Buford

James D. Buford is a fashion commentator, writer, fashion designer, and musician-producer based in Portland, Oregon. You can follow more of his images and words on  Instagram / Facebook / Twitter

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